Infused Liquors at London's Bar

infusions in the works
All photos l Felicia D’Ambrosio

June 2009

Flavored liquor is not my thing. You can keep your APeach, APear and Cherry Bombs; I like to chew my sugar, not mainline it.  Prejudiced as I am, the words “apricot-peanut bourbon” markered across a homey glass jar behind the bar at Fairmount stalwart London Grill sent my brown-liquor antennae spinning.

London Grill bartender Adrian Cane, former cook at José Ramon Andres’ D.C. tapas temple Jaleo, is the man behind the apricot-peanut bourbon, as well as a spicy hibiscus- and cucumber-infused tequila. Other bartenders, as well as bar manager Christina Tessaro, owner Terry Berch and chef/owner Michael McNally concoct their own infusionsm, as well — the housemade lineup comprises dozens of choices. “I love how interested everyone is in this,” said Berch. “We wanted them to be involved in this process and they have come up with amazing things.”
  

The kitchen is integral to their whole-house approach to developing a cocktail list. “Sous chef Jason Lemon and I have meetings all the time, about what seasonal ingredients I can use for infusions,” said Cane. “I talk to him about what liquors to cook with and we share ideas.”
Infusion Array

Chef McNally’s Italian-style blood orange and grapefruit-cello is intensely floral, with a harmonious balance of sweetness and citrus; the beguiling potion begs to be mixed with a bit of Prosecco for a glam breakfast drink or apertif. Both this infusion and his classic limoncello cannot be rushed — they infuse for at least two months to develop their full flavor. “We don’t sell anything until it’s ready,” said Tessaro. “Everything is tasted throughout its stages and checked.”

Though the neutral base of vodka makes it a natural for infusions, the London staff does not limit their creativity. Berch has a violet gin in the works, which will be the base of a Pre-Prohibition classic, the Aviation. Mint and lavender from London’s garden are making their way into a new infusion now.
Bartender Adrian Cane

Cane explained the trial-and-error approach to doctoring up booze. “The apricot-peanut bourbon was an experiment. We used dried, un-sulphured apricots and — this is important — dry-roasted unsalted peanuts,” he lauged. “That could have gone badly had we forgotten the unsalted part.” The mixture was left undisturbed for a few days, until Cane noticed the peanuts had released a significant amount of oil into the alcohol. At that point, he removed the nuts to keep them from from dominating the flavor. After infusing for a few weeks, he decanted the jar in front of me to offer a sample.

The spirit’s hard edges had been erased by the softness of the peanut oil, with an underlying sweetness from the apricots. It was lovely, a perfect way to transition brown liquors into the warmer seasons. “I think I’ll make a Apricot-Peanut Manhattan with it,” said Cane. “With peach bitters, and leave out the vermouth because it’s already a little sweet.” He also pondered an Apricot Julep, muddled with fresh apricots, the bourbon and a little club soda.

“You don’t have to add sugar to these infusions,” noted Tessaro. “The flavors are intense and don’t need it.”

Other summery potions include the James Bond Vesper, a blend of grapefruit-citrus gin, Finlandia grapefruit vodka and Lillet, and the Pink Pepino, a vibrantly hued martini of hibiscus-cucumber tequila, PAMA liqueur and a float of sparkling wine.

“You guys have quite the cocktail program,” I marveled to the beaming staff.

“We’re a little under the radar,” said Tessaro. “It’s a speakeasy.”

London Grill, 2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545, londongrill.com

This entry was posted on Friday, June 5th, 2009 at 1:20 pm and is filed under Booze, Chef Salad, Patio Drinking. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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